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Front Deraileur Adjustment

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Front Deraileur Adjustment

Postby REYES on Thu Mar 11, 2010 4:52 pm

So I tried messing with my front adjustment and I just confuse myself when I mess with it, learn it then forget it and screw it up again.

Here's my problem. I have a double compact 50-34 crankset and I can shift down to the small ring nicely from the big ring but when I try to shift up it either doesn't go or I have to mess with my rear gears and somehow the front big ring catches the chain and it switches.

So now, I'm thinking it's my high-low adjustment, the only problem is I'm not sure which one controls which, haha. Is the low adjustment the screw furthest away from the frame and high is the one closest to the frame? If that's right, which one do I turn in and/or out to allow the deraileur to move away from the frame further than it is right now so it pushes my chain onto the big ring; because that's essentially what I want it to do, right?

All this bicycle maintanence non-sense confuses the hell out of me, lol. gfg.

Thanks for the help.
No one ever achieved anything without pain. Cycling IS pain and I LOVE pain. - myself.
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Re: Front Deraileur Adjustment

Postby lisa on Thu Mar 11, 2010 5:37 pm

If I answered you, I'm afraid you'd be going to the bike shop for a new front d. :lol:

In the meantime, I thought I'd send over a web resource you may find useful:
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/front-derailers.html

Specific adjustment info here:
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/derailer-adjustment.html
--Lisa
"The journey of a thousand miles starts with a single pedal stroke."
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Re: Front Deraileur Adjustment

Postby REYES on Thu Mar 11, 2010 5:47 pm

Why thank you, I think this should work. I will give it a shot when I get home.
No one ever achieved anything without pain. Cycling IS pain and I LOVE pain. - myself.
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Re: Front Deraileur Adjustment

Postby kenstein on Thu Mar 11, 2010 8:59 pm

If you're still stumped after reading thru Sheldon Brown's stuff, here's a little info that may help.
Sometimes the only way to determine which screw is which is to get slack in the shifter cable, let the cage fall to the inside, and pick a screw. If the cage doesn't move as you turn the screw, it's the other screw.
How do you get slack in the cable? Well, usually when a f. derailleur (I prefer the French spelling) is properly adjusted, there's a small amount of slack when you're in your small ring. You may be able to add some with your adjuster at the cable stop.
The lower adjustment screw is easy. If it's not screwed in far enough, you'll drop the chain a lot. Or, conversely, it won't shift down well. But this could be for two reasons--the stop screw is screwed in too far, or there's too much cable tension to allow enough cage movement even if the stop screw is set properly. When you eliminate the cable from the equation, life gets better. I always adjust my lower stop screw so that my chain almost touches the inner wall of the cage when I'm in my lowest gear. That way, no noise, and very few dropped chains.
The outer adjustment is a little trickier. The screw may be turned in too tight, preventing the cage from moving far enough to the outside. But a stretched cable will have the same effect, since the longer cable doesn't pull the cable as far as a shorter one would. One way to tell if it's cable or stop screw is this. With the chain on the big ring already and with you standing next to your bike, pull your lever all the way to shift towards the outside as far as it will go. Try to pull the cage further. If you can, it's probably cable. If not, it's probably limiter screw.
Last edited by kenstein on Thu Mar 11, 2010 9:16 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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Re: Front Deraileur Adjustment

Postby kenstein on Thu Mar 11, 2010 9:11 pm

One more thing. At the risk of committing blasphemy, I disagree with one point the late, great Mr. Brown made. Although getting it close, on initial setup, may take several turns one way or the other, I've found turning limiter screws to be a very critical adjustment. Sometimes, the difference between overshifting and dropping the chain, and undershifting, which causes slow shifts and/or chain rub, is less than a 1/4 turn--even a 1/8 turn can make the difference. Especially with a triple.
Now if you'll excuse me, I need to see a priest. I feel dirty all over.
"Light. Strong. Cheap. Pick two."--Keith Bontrager
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Re: Front Deraileur Adjustment

Postby Rider1 on Thu Mar 11, 2010 10:18 pm

You might find this video tutorial helpful also:

http://bicycletutor.com/adjust-front-derailer/


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Re: Front Deraileur Adjustment

Postby REYES on Fri Mar 12, 2010 11:44 am

Thanks for the video, I watched and definitely have a better understanding of it but now here is my next question;

I played with it and got it to shift correctly BUT, my high limit (I think, it's the one closest to the frame) is very far out, to me it just seems like it's TOO far out so my question is would that mean that maybe I have too much slack on my cable and should I start over from square one by doing all the steps involved in the video?
No one ever achieved anything without pain. Cycling IS pain and I LOVE pain. - myself.
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